Parma fcr racing at PJ raceway
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This mod is the most common, easy to do and sturdy.
The screws are attached to a strip of aluminium glued inside the body, the holes in the chassis are opened up until satisfactory slack is achieved.
We call this class American Thunder.
Rules are few and liberal.
A slightly loose body improves performance, nothing new there.
Wider, lower, lightweight body from White Point.
Performance matches the Scale Autos raced at our track.
At this point it is no longer an FCR, but essentially a rough Retro chassis.
Just go retro if this is what you want.
Rich Goucher "I want to go like my grandfather, in his sleep.
Not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
With the FCR we do not want to go retro, we just want to go faster.
This is essentially parma slot car chassis a cheap, readily available chassis with a lot of potential and developing it.
If I just put scale correct Wheels on it, and a heavier, scale correct body, new or old, I loose parma slot car chassis />Our goal at the track is to find out what mods are both easy and sensible, I have seen some hardbody solutions on the FCR in other threads and thought it might be nice to gather the information.
Who knows, maybe Parma will find some inspiration, I hope they, or someone, just click for source step up and match AMT.
We also race the FCR in original configuration.
What retro chassis are you thinking about?
Thanks for sharing how you race them.
It would indeed be incredible if Parma found some inspiration!
These classes remain today having been run in the Penn.
The sprint class is still running today at parma slot car chassis like Scale Speed Raceway, Awareness Parma slot car chassis and other great tracks in the Penn.
Today I run a series called, "The Clash for Cash" that not only runs these cars but also a class called Old Time Mods that are built on a narrowed FCR.
These cars range from Pintos and Gremlins all the way to the 36 Chevy that ruled local tracks for years.
These cars are run complete with roll cage and two piece body.
I do not have the capacity to post pictures, however, if you would like to see some of these cars you can go to either Portsmouth Motor Speedway or Scale Speed Raceway and look at the cars.
I know this might come as a shock to some people, but there are racers who are happy running the current stamped brass or steel inline chasses, either stock or altered, and not everybody aspires to become a "Retro Racer".
Some of us ran the retros when they were not called Retro, they were just called the newer and better chassis.
We were using Deathstar motors and hard bodies.
It handled pretty good.
Because light travels faster than sound, some people appear to be bright until we hear them speaking.
I am curious about the track you race on.
Could you describe it?
I will definetly have a go at parma slot car chassis solution as well.
What kind of bodies did you run?
One is a Hillclimber, used mainly for 1:24 production cars with deathstar motors, this track is 8 lanes with glue.
One is flat and is mainly used for Hardbody racing, this track is black, gloss finish, no glue, 6 tracks.
Here we race Hardbody Nascar, Trans Am, Scaleauto all with nuts and bolts chassis We parma slot car chassis race FCR here.
We call this track The black Adder.
On occasion we have a parma slot car chassis at racing the Nascars or the Trans Am cars on the Hillclimber.
As far as our own tracks I will have to make some Pictures, the KSRC, Karlskoga Slot Racing Club is not big on documentation.
I assume the wings create downforce at high speeds.
A very different approach to wing cars.
Did you make a jig for this conversion?
I will have a go at using the PSE for retro GP as well, cutting one down to 30mm width, we will see how that goes.
We tune them with lead and the average car weighs in at between 130 and 140 Grams.
The wing does offer some down force as at times we race them without the wings and they handle quite differently.
I do not have a jig, however, one for your basic parma 573 chassis would work.
The beauty of these cars is that even though we do have many wrecks with them we do not use corner marshals and each off results in a tack call.
One other thing is that about two months ago I attended a race at SSR and ran third place with my 33 Sprint.
After the race the man who originally built the car came up to me and stated that the car was about 10 years old and that was the best it had run in the last five years.
So, I guess that in a funny way we are running a form of retro racing, not that we are running cars that look like the cars of the 60s and 70s but on a given day somebody running a brand new chassis can be running against a chassis that is over 10 years old.
It's a trick I learned from Pablo.
Try it on some of the joints you have on your existing 1/32 slot car buildings, just put a drop of Stay Bright flux on your solder joints and hit them with a mini torch and see what happens.
Those stockers look like they would see more a blast to race.
Jim "Butch" Dunaway Anything is source IF you don't know what you are talking about.
When you are dead, you don't know you are dead.
It is difficult only for the others.
It's the same when you are stupid.
We have found Koford 5% silver solder, and i have good hopes that we will have a small quantity of Stay Bright here real soon.
In the meantime i do what I can with radio solder and a 100W weller.
I have also a butane torch but am not happy with the results yet.
Both have body mounting plates that rattle.
Russkit repop rims are ok fit with the original inserts.
These were a part of a trading deal, will be interesting to see how they run.
I like your cars, back in 82 we were cutting up wop chassis and running stock cars bodys Don't have any left.
Good stuff, fun stuff.
The FCR and Womp is a great platform to play around with.
I did a Womp stretch hardbody Corvette about 25 years ago.
The class was started but never really took off at the local track.
I'll dig it up and post a picture.
We currently are rotating races at Mike Swiss's Chicagoland Raceway and At the Track in South Bend, Indiana.
Most common are standard FCR frames with the bushings raised to the top of the upright after nibbling out the brass and womp frames stretched to the models specific wheelbase with piano wire and brass angles soldered in - all velcro body mounts.
Cars are more like the dirt oval racers in our midwest.
I have a corvette and cobra project that I will build with retro torsion bar suspension.
These will be more aligned with the California D3 hardbody rules.
The womp frame is narrow enough to make an easier build for many of the narrower model kits.
Kelley, MA retired raceway owner.
We have to use the Deathstar motor and closed wheelhouses right now.
Building a Slot Car Eliminator Chassis 1/24 scale Part 1
There is no substitute for practice and tuning. Plan to spend some time figuring out what the car needs. If the front end comes out first or it goes straight in turns (assuming everything is aligned correctly in the chassis), you probably have too much rear end bite. If the rear end feels too loose you don't have enough traction.
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